Best climbing webbing anchor reddit I am a new recreational climber climbing MRS. Needless to my climbing partner and I educated his buddy who talked a real good game but thought 30 feet of 3/4inch webbing overhand-knotted to a bomber chain-link fence post was well within acceptable practice. Best Use Cases: Flat webbing is commonly used in applications that require higher strength, such as climbing harnesses, load-bearing straps, cargo straps, and seat belts. Old school routes, bolts, anchors and practices. 60cm is too short for most rap anchors, but they can work for a smaller tree. Webbing is really only good for slinging trees and boulders, and other than specialist high strength anchors isn't really used that much any more. Also, monkey-see-monkey-do. The results were quite shocking to me. Plus it cost less than five bucks for the webbing. Some areas may have bolted anchors that are easily accessible, in which case you'll just need slings and some more biners. I only carry webbing while climbing for use in bail anchors, but for canyoneering where it is super common I would use the 1in tubular webbing. If there aren't bolted anchors available, you'll need pro to build your own. People commonly buy a long piece of one-inch tubular webbing that they can use to extend an anchor well back from an edge down to where the rope can run smoothly. There are better ways to undo a stuck knot on your climbing rope. 10 votes, 12 comments. If you like static cord stay with it - it probably is superior to webbing for all the reasons you mentioned plus the superior abrasion resistance. 5mm static rope is Dec 16, 2019 · I am still quite new in the climbing world and have been trying to figure out the best way to set up a top rope anchor. Any tubular webbing or pre-sewn slings will also be suitable. Look at the second edition of "climbing anchors" by John Long. To be honest the lack of knowledge from the employees has got me wondering. Can thread the free end through the loop, making a CHOKE; possibly around a tree or rock. The only thing I'd use webbing for is rap/bail anchors I plan to leave behind, and even then I tend toward rated accessory cord. I am considering the following setup, for climbing single pitch crags of 8-15 meters on top rope (either tree anchors or bolted anchors): 60 meter static (aka semi-dynamic) rope, double figure-8 to the anchor Petxl micro traxion with prusikk backup. A PAS has separate webbing loops sewed in series, whereas a daisy chain is a single piece of webbing looped and then sewn at several point. Both are static, the shop employee told me it's better not to use static for top rope anchors. Here are some guidelines to consider: Anchor Building and Rappel Considerations: The length of webbing you carry should be sufficient to build strong and secure rappel anchors. (Edit) To be clear, this is for webbing or cord when used for anchors. Divide your rope into thirds. if it is, you did something else very wrong. I personally use nylon webbing for my personal anchor. 11mm (7/16ths) and larger diameter static ropes are heavy and cumbersome to knot, while smaller diameter lines (less than 9mm) are weaker and less versatile. I have only had to use the two 30s together once when the hangers were removed from a set of anchors and had to sling a block that was well back from the edge of the climb. Tubular webbing is significantly cheaper which I think accounts for its popularity in the US, but in general, yes, I agree with your assessment. It's much safer imo. I am using a webbing sling loop in a basket (pic attached) to move the ascender far enough away from my body that I can use the tail of the rope to body thrust up the line (and auto tend slack). Plenty of people I know use dyneema for a PAS, but you have to be more careful not to shock load it (which you shouldn't do under normal circumstances anyways). Works especially well for welded Water Knots in webbing. Find the middle point of the first two thirds. Ultimately, learning the one-handed clove hitch and using a few med-large biners at your belay for the clove is the tried-and-true method for quick, dynamic personal anchors using the climbing rope. Business, Economics, and Finance. GameStop Moderna Pfizer Johnson & Johnson AstraZeneca Walgreens Best Buy Novavax SpaceX Tesla. The way I set up tree anchors is I use 40 ft of webbing (I prefer webbing to static rope because the webbing is flat and won't abrade the tree as much and cause less erosion of the bark) wrapped around the trees 3 times and the ends tied together with a water knot. It’s not worth the $5-10. Some people use 5mm but it just looks freaky, especially running over sharp edges. I recently bought a cordelette so I rarely use the 10 foot webbing anymore but they were handy if anchors were set back slightly and a double length sling wasn't enough. Thank you. Equalized webbing anchors is always best, however if you have an established anchor point, on pretty much a flat wall, I don't see too much of a problem with it my only concern is that the biners don't lock. Get more webbing (assuming 1" tubular) and a length of 8mm cord. The home of Climbing on reddit. For top roping, you can buy about 40 ft. No matter where you are, its going to be about the same: some cordelette, some webbing, a few lockers and non lockers, and either the wisdom to recognize your own limitations in evaluating anchors or the ballsiness not to care. I had the unfortunate experience of climbing on one back in the day. I learned on a Blake's hitch, moved the Blake's to a split tail and recently got my hands on a Zigzag. A factor 2 fall on the anchor was I think 16kn for nylon, 25 for dyneema and only 8kn for an anchor made using ropes. Bring an end through the two webbing loops until you are at this point. It might be 90 feet of 5. Posted by u/SpacemanSpiff214 - 9 votes and 31 comments Hey guys. Jun 5, 2019 · We recommend static rope used for climbing anchors be 9. It's also your responsibility to build a rap anchor, following local ethics, that you leave behind if there's nothing 3 - Racking for climbing I have all my smaller cams on my right first gear loop (gates out because anything else is heresy) usually up to a c4 number 1, with nuts and c4 size 2+ on my left first gear loop, and anchor/belay gear on the back two gear loops. 20m or so of static rope might be a more sensible purchase. Tubular Webbing: This is when you can actually factor-two your personal anchor and snap a biner. Cut some of the webbing and slip the cord inside so that the webbing acts as an edge protector. Having learned the Overhand on a Bight, let's see how to use it to rig an anchor RIGGING #1: CHOKE AROUND A TREE The best option would be to bring quick links (rated for climbing!) that you can attach directly to the bolts to then thread your rope through or use a couple carabiners to do the same. Cordelette (6mm): Pros: My favorite. Webbing is cheap at Wheeler's. Most times I use the webbing trick I described to jalpp: "slip about a 4 foot length of 1" tubular webbing over your static line and tie your masterpoint where the webbing is. The appropriate length of webbing can vary based on the specific routes you're climbing, the nature of the anchors, and your personal preferences. There is never sense in cluttering your anchor with more than you need. But also a cordlette can be cut up and used to make rappels/abseils if needed. It's your responsibility to evaluate it and replace any of it if it's unsafe. In regards to toprope anchor building: I have both a 60ft static line and 60ft webbing. The area is known for low angle slab climbing. Crypto. You already have some webbing. If a spare locking carabiner isn't available, be sure the gates are opposed, and add a third carabinerI have done my share of toproping, and whenever a locking carabiner is unavailable, I always If you are making an IDEAS anchor with three points, between two belay stations you've just burned 6 lockers. Long enough to build and anchor and tie a knot in so you can clip two bolts when using as a PAS. I've heard inserting a carabiner into it can make it easier to untie as you can pull the biner out and make some room in the knot. They sold me 5mm cord for the prussic and 7mm for the anchor. As always, I recommend you do some research on anchor building. When setting up the rap, there's usually webbing or cord plus hardware left behind by previous parties. I am looking to make a pas in order to free up other gear I currently use. All my draws are on a shoulder sling. And yes we are scared of falling. Crypto This same anchor could be build with ~6 ft of webbing and a 15 ft section of static cord. From the top: Mammut Contact, Petzl Pur'Anneau, BD Dynex, Sterling Dyneema, Camp USA 11mm, Trango Low Bulk, Metolius Open Loop, BlueWater Titan, Sterling Nylon, and BD Nylon. It is maybe slightly bulky, but I haven't found it to be an issue. With a lifetime of climbing, I never rap off a single strand of old webbing. It's also used in situations where the webbing needs to lie flat against a surface, such as in backpack straps or webbing belts. Lots of climbs share a common anchor that really shouldn’t. 9 - 10. It depends on how the set up is. A PAS is perfectly fine for use as an anchor, but so is a clove hitch. Doing more outdoor climbing and i just want to be as safe as possible and extend rope life. You use your own anchor during the climbing. Pages 154 - 158 deal with off axis loading of cordelette anchors with both nylon and high tensile tape. I don't think we really need much more info. Sep 1, 2023 · All 10 slings that we tested for this review side-by-side for comparison, arranged from thinnest on top to thickest on the bottom. I trusted it, but I was curious what other thoughts were out there on non-climbing certified webbing, like tow straps. Will be anchoring off of trees and large boulders often. I recently picked up the Petzl dual Connect Adjust and while I've only used it a handful of times I'm already a huge fan, it is probably the best personal anchor I've ever used. com Jan 24, 2011 · Trsago posted a link on 12-19-10 to a study which showed static cord to have superior abrasion resistance over webbing. rated strength is NOT even close to a direct measure of safety, since an anchor is a system and no single component should ever be subjected to the breaking strength of a cord. Aug 18, 2019 · For use in top-rope anchors, either type of material will work. Hey climbit, I have about 250' of mil spec climbing webbing and I want to chop it up into various lengths I can use to build natural anchors (bought… I have 1 inch tubular webbing and 7 mm accessory cord. Posted by u/redfont - 14 votes and 16 comments It's the safest and best. In that case, use two quick-draws, lockers on the chains and revolving lockers for the rope. You can build an anchor just about anywhere at the lake with a set of hexes and a 25-50 foot piece of static rope. They all have pros and cons, but all are safe when used properly. There are some bolt hangers that are designed to be used to rappel from (examples are round stock glue in bolts or Metolius rap ring bolts) but that requires If the latter, nylon webbing is nice to have for rappel anchors you'll leave behind. See full list on rei. Guy said he was new to climbing outside, and wants a versatile anchor setup. Used mainly for sport - cleaning routes and on multipitch raps. rated strength is not the same concept as durability in an anchor, the most important aspect is not a single component's rated strength. This is a solid set up for me and allows me to do any anchoring I need to. Conclusion. Alpine Butterfly/Alpine-Loop (ABOK #1053): Pros: Completely multidirectional (will handle non-linear or spreading loads with ease), generally easy to untie (if it jams, wiggling one of the loops will free it), easy I primitive with 20m 24mm Tubular Webbing (~50' of 1"), 4 Oval Biners, 1 pear shape locking biner, 2 aluminum descending rings (for line lockers), and a couple 5m loops of webbing for anchors. I frequently use water knots for setting up TR anchors w/ webbing, however they get super difficult to untie after a bunch of people are bouncing on them all day. Reply reply It is not likely to be a problem given you are abseiling with very little real load or shock, multiple redundant anchors etc, but personally I'd rather have a bit more tail on the webbing water knots. It surprised me that my partner did not know this and he was kind of amazed the first time he saw me do this. Occasionally I will need to anchor on trees more than ~20ft… Love the Jive Ass Anchors. In terms anchor-building materials, you’re good to use cordelette, webbing, nylon, dynema, or the rope. I've read and heard great things about webbing and the same for quad anchors but I can't find anything for making a quad with webbing. Also, best practice would be to tie limiter knots above your MP, but in reality for a rap anchor it's fine. The nylon won out by a huge margin and it equalized much better. Posted by u/ReverendWilly - 23 votes and 88 comments Nov 22, 2012 · Makes a strong end of webbing. I went to an outdoor shop and said I wanted cord for a top rope anchor cordelette and an prussik knot. For mountaineering it will ultimately depend if you’re building a full belay with 3 anchors or not, you might just be moving together. " Cordlette is very useful for multi pitch climbing of any sort as you can typically use one to equalize 3 anchors. For top rope anchors i'll always use lockers because they tend to swing around a lot and you dont have someone there keeping an eye on the anchor at all times. I was just wondering what are some common or overlooked mistakes people make when setting up top rope anchors? Like dropping a rope off and edge at 90° and etc. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. I'm a bit worried about sharp edges from the machinery on webbing, you are the best person to judge what is going on there though. Uses: Tie-in, general anchor use (will work splendidly with slippery webbing with minimal jamming), end-of-rope knot for hauling. 1. The quad is one type of anchor, but it’s not the be-all-end-all anchor and you may find yourself in situations where it may not be suitable. This will hold your webbing together. For toprope anchors with disparate placements: Generally I use webbing to extend pieces by tying it in a loop with a water knot, then clipping one end to the placement and the other to one of the strands of your cordelette. of tubular 1" webbing and cut it into lengths to make you own double length, or even larger, tied slings. If your anchor is too busy it just makes it more dangerous in the long-run because the person cleaning can get easily flustered by a crowded anchor. Posted by u/Violent_Testicles - 6 votes and 12 comments To try to answer your actual question, the two main types of rock anchors are (1) gear anchors, and (2) "natural" or "wrap" anchors where you tie a sling/rope/webbing around some object (tree, chicken head, boulder, etc) that's big/strong enough to handle the fall force. Posted by u/[Deleted Account] - 3 votes and 5 comments Climbing Anchors by John Long 3rd ed, page 173: Connect the rope to the anchors with two opposed carabiners, at least one of which is locking. 0 to 10. 5mm in diameter due to the strength (20+ kN) and ability to use with a belay device like a GriGri. I say nylon because it has some elasticity if you accidentally shock load it. So: first tree > webbing > cord with webbing sheath and tied masterpoint > webbing > second tree. Use the rest of the webbing for a second anchor leg. Reply reply One_North_5808 It was used like any other webbing would be in anchor building, and is rated for greater weight (10,000 lbs minimum breaking strength) though it wasn't certified by any organization. Additionally I've made a Z-Pulley with 2 stubai pulleys, and 3 D-biners to get the system tight. Not for your climbing rope. We hope this article has been helpful in your quest to find the best climbing slings for your intended Most of the time I build my anchors using the rope itself. That way you get redundancy at the loop and an extra protective "sheath" over your knot. For bolted stations it's more convenient to just use a double-length sling (either premade or your own webbing one). Build your webbing anchor, but instead of tying a water knot to join the webbing, tie two loops that almost join. DMM did a video comparing nylon and dyneema slings with ropes in the anchor. It is tied in a loop with a double fisherman's (plenty of tail) and girth hitched to my hard points, with shelves made by overhand knots. As young climbers it’s easy to forget that even if you ditch your whole rack, even if it costs a couple hundred bucks, it doesn’t matter, you can buy it all back at the shop. Can tie the bight with a ring in the bight, for the working end of a rap anchor. I prefer using the static line over webbing personally, as it's easier to work with and more versatile. 7 face climbing with the top out being (a fucking hike) 30 feet of literal class 3 walking. Thats expensive and a waste of resources. It handles abrasion much better than webbing and gives you more options for equalising anchors etc. I’m not sure of the routes names. ojiug ymfst vqms erposn ogxlbus csdkf oznxcjib xcjynt ypvjj cuhcoyzep