Best self belay device ), assisted braking devices, and even the old-school munter hitch. We appreciate the small, thoughtful design features of the Micro Traxion Sep 19, 2022 · Most so-called self-belay devices were actually designed as one of the following: Rope grabs and rope clamps (e. It deserves its award as our Top Pick for belay devices. It is true that self-belaying is not new, and there have been many devices out for years. I've kept my Mini-Traxion, but the only thing I use it for is hauling, the function it was designed for. If you’d like to read more about how the Petzl GriGri 2 compared to the other devices we tested, check out our article on the best belay devices. One is the Munter hitch, a knot used along with a locking belay carabiner to belay or rappel. For the price, this device is a great value. It feeds slack with ease, securely catches lead falls, and securely auto-blocks when belaying a follower from above on multi-pitch routes. The device is compatible with ropes measuring 8. There are two types: passive and active, which refer to whether or not the device has moving parts (not to how much effort the belayer has to put in). May 28, 2024 · Like its predecessor, the GriGri+ prevents rope slippage, allows you to haul, and belay with an assist without batting an eye. Petzl offers a wide selection of descenders and innovative belay devices designed for all vertical activities. This results in an extended device lifespan and higher cycle capacity, making TRUBLUE the safest, most durable auto belay on the market. Dec 5, 2024 · The Giga Jul is the most versatile belay device on the market, by far. com : S. Can't find a partner? No problem, just fix a climbing rope from the top of the crag and self belay. ; Climbing Gym Accessibility: Auto belay devices enhance accessibility, efficiency, and safety in climbing gyms, accommodating climbers of all skill levels. Feb 3, 2022 · The self-belay device on the climber arrests the falls, not by one at the ground or anchor. Assisted-braking belay devices (also sometimes called self-braking, self-locking, auto-blocking or auto-locking devices) are designed to lock down Dec 16, 2022 · The best belay device for multi-pitch climbing is an auto-blocking belay device when the device is set up in guide mode, such as the Black Diamond ATC Guide or the Petzl Grigri. 5mm Rope for Rescue & Arborist/Anti-Panic, Hand Control, Black : Sports & Outdoors The Leisure range offers an excellent range of products for climbing wall gyms, adventure parks, high ropes courses, home uses and much more. These are definitely the safest devices to get and are the best choice for beginners. Or keep reading for our Feb 11, 2010 · For a day at the gym or crags, this device is a great, auto-locking belay device alternative to the standard belay device such as the Black Diamond ATC XP, which does not lock up. That way, you will always be on top of your annual maintenance schedule without having to go through ordering, making purchase orders or paying a bulk sum. Now you have set up your belay, attached appropriately via your solo device, stacked your rope and decided on a backup, you're ready to climb. The Best Hunting Gifts for Father’s Day 2025 May 30 For as little as $14,95 per device per month, we will automatically deliver replacement Self Belay devices to you a few weeks before your warranty expires so that you can easily swap them out. Four different climbers have played the role of lead reviewer of belay devices over that time, and it is remarkable how little variance they have Jul 29, 2024 · In a lead-belay scenario, he imagines the Neox will also be a better option for left-handed climbers, who can adopt traditional ATC rope-feeding tactics. In theory, any belay device can be used to belay from above. Whether you are belaying a leader in assisted-brake mode, rappelling down long routes with two ropes, or belaying a follower from above, this device performs every task that a belay device is ever asked to do. Mar 12, 2025 · The Petzl NEOX assisted-braking belay device cleverly uses a rotating wheel inside the cam to relieve a universal problem: unwanted activation when feeding out slack to a lead climber. The Trango Cinch is Trango's old assisted belay device. In the 1970s, the first patented belay device was the Feb 21, 2020 · The Black Diamond ATC Pilot is a “geometry assisted” belay device for ropes in the 8. Others include the Beal Birdie, Each device undergoes extensive third-party testing by an ISO 17025 accredited lab, ensuring top-tier safety and performance. If you ever feel the need for a closer backup, simply tie one where you want it, taking tension from your main belay rope as needed. 2) The additional loops of aluminum functions as an effective heat sink, allowing this device to run cooler than comparable tube-style devices. . I would advocate for learning on the Jul2 - if you can lead belay using a Jul2, you should be able to lead belay using any tubular style device, should the need ever arise. Trango Passport) Fall arrest devices (e. Goblin) There is no certification standard for a top rope solo self-belay device. Jan 4, 2024 · Most climbers own 1-3 belay devices, and use different devices depending on the type of climbing, rope thickness, and location of the climb. " Figure 8 Jun 20, 2018 · But for now, the GriGri 2 remains the device we reach for the most, on everything from days at the crag to big walls. Feb 22, 2020 · An automatic belay device (AKA auto belay) takes up slack as you climb, thereby negating the need for a belayer on the ground. A belay device is your lifeline, literally. Below, you’ll find the best climbing hardware available in 2024. It is the same weight as most manual belay devices, meaning that you hardly notice it on the side of your harness. Other Belay Devices Nov 6, 2008 · Looking for advice on the best device for self toprope belay? I was looking at the Petzl basic. Jun 15, 2012 · Use the other locker to clip the next loop before unclipping the first, and so on. 3. Editor’s Choice: Metolius Roll Up Stick Clip Kit ($225) Belay Devices And Descenders. Any solo belay method should be regarded as a last resort that may allow you to survive the fall, but no system, including the Soloist, can guarantee your safety in a fall Jul 25, 2022 · Amazon. I also think it’s more intuitive to understand the mechanics involved in belaying with a tube style device (although since you’re already familiar with TR lead belaying Dec 5, 2024 · The Neox might be the best belay device for lead climbing and single-pitch climbing, but the similar Petzl GriGri is more versatile and remains our favorite overall belay device for its versatility. When the rope is weighted the angle of the device changes, locking the rope down, though, as we mentioned above, you still need to keep your brake hand on the rope. Is a chest harness needed for toprope self belay? I have done this before with a silent partner (hated the SP so I sold it), and the technique I used was as follows: Rig two fixed ropes (one 60M tied at the anchor with an overhand figure eight). Mar 16, 2022 · Perhaps the best reason to learn the body belay is to maximize your repertoire of self-rescue skills. May 21, 2024 · This utilitarian device even works reasonably well as an emergency ascender, especially when clipped directly to the belay loop in a 2:1 setup (when set up with an active assisted-braking belay device, it is sometimes referred to as a “photographer's ascending setup”). 8 4. The following characteristics are essential for any self-belay system: Effective and immediate blocking in all situations. The climbing rope is threaded into one or both of the tubes of the belay device. However, if you want the versatility of belaying one or two followers, stick with a tube device with guide mode. It’s worth repeating that these are all capable belay devices. It's not something you want to skimp Jun 27, 2012 · 3. Redundancy of the belay. An endless debate rages over which solo devices are best. Make sure the cams (protection gear you can anchor in crevices) for each device are properly locked onto the rope. Dec 5, 2024 · The Right Device for the Climb. This includes all tube-style devices (ATC, reverso, etc. Check all your equipment twice – remember that no one will belay for you when you’re hanging from the rock. 4 out of 5 stars Dec 15, 2021 · Belay Devices and Techniques for Belaying From Above. A fall onto a slack static rope could injure you (even fatally) or cause the system to fail. We found the Oct 15, 2021 · While the second device is technically a backup device, the redundancy is important for safety. Owners have gone as far as to say it's the perfect belay device for top rope and lead belay. In terms of versatility, the GriGri shows some limitations. If you have any of them, there’s no need to throw it away for something else. e. May 5, 2025 · A belay device is essential for catching falls anytime you're climbing on a rope. Unlike the other ATC variety which have 2 rope slots, the ATC Sport only has 1 rope slot. Apr 27, 2021 · Here are the best belay devices: Petzl GriGri 2; Black Diamond ATC-Guide; Edelrid Mega Jul; Petzl GriGri + Petzl Reverso; Black Diamond ATC-XP; How to Choose the Best Belay Device for Your Needs. However, many belay devices are designed with top belaying especially in mind and will do this job much better. Caving, mountaineering, multi-pitch, cragging, canyoning, each activity has its device. Dec 28, 2024 · Before we jump into the list, let's talk about why having a good belay device is crucial. ” Other than a distinction between other belay device types, “Tube” is a rarely used term, most climbers just assume you're talking about this style when they refer to your "belay device. This review is based on months of testing with 17 of today's most popular belay devices, but it rests on a 12-year foundation that goes back to when we first started examining the product category. performed alone without a climbing partner), but unlike with free solo climbing, which is also performed alone and with no climbing protection whatsoever, the rope-solo climber uses a mechanical self-belay device and rope system, which enables them to use the standard climbing protection to protect Feb 22, 2020 · Guide plates are very similar to the tubular belay device with one minor alteration - there are two attachment points (one large, one small). Every 15 feet or so tie a back-up knot in the strand of rope that your self belay device is not attached to. In light of my experiences, I find the popularity of mini-traxions for top rope self belay incredible. You also need a way to get up or down if you can’t do a move. The process is simple; as you climb the rope feeds out from your bag (your spare rope), through your self-feeding solo device, and creates 'climbing rope' for you to progress upwards. Aug 14, 2018 · Self-belaying. A. Feb 12, 2024 · Assisted-Braking Belay/Rappel Device. Best for: Sport climbing, gym climbing, multipitch trad climbing. The Black Diamond ATC Sport is another type of tubular aperture belay device. The Best Men’s Climbing Pants of 2025 Jun 1, 2021 · Standard belay devices, carabiners, and quick-draws. Other belay techniques are helpful but rarely used except in emergencies. Sep 17, 2012 · There are a lot of reasons not to use a guide mode tube device to self belay on top rope, but I don't think damage to the rope is one of them. 2. 8 out of 5 stars 2,579 ratings Now, when you're in the market for a belay device, you have three main types on the menu: Tubular; Assisted braking; Figure 8; The choice of belaying devices for climbing depends on the type of climbing experience you want to have. Another common aperture-style self-braking belay device is Petzl’s Reverso. C. PEAK CE Certified Climbing Double Stop Descender Self-Braking Self Locking Rappelling Belay Devices for 10-12. Apr 28, 2025 · At the same time, pull out with the brake hand to get the slack through the belay device. Comfort and ease of use. Tips: Mentally prepare yourself before you climb so that you’re in top shape. This puts a bend in the rope at the belay device that will keep the rope from moving through it. This means you’ll need to unweight the self-belay devices mid-pitch, and then either rappel or ascend the rope. Rope-solo climbing or rope-soloing (or self-belaying) is a form of solo climbing (i. Nov 6, 2022 · The ATC by Black Diamond is a contemporary iteration of older tube-style belay devices. Durable, light and upgrade-ready! Self regulating magnetic braking system Designed for indoor or outdoor use Handmade in the USA with high-quality parts If selecting TRU-CLIP Connector, additional Key Links may be needed for optimal coverage. 7 to 10. But which one is the best? Belay devices come in three different categories — tube-style, auto-blocking devices, and assisted braking devices — and our expert climbing testers have put in hundreds of hours belaying and testing all three kinds. From the gym to the single-pitch crag to the high alpine, the variety of climbing styles is matched only by the variety of belay devices and techniques. The Smart took some getting used to. But the Mini Traxion started a revolution because it is so lightweight, compact, simple, and easy to use. Photo: Elliott Natz. The result is a comprehensive comparison-t Sep 21, 2023 · In 2019, Petzl released the newest version, and we think it’s the best overall belay device available in 2024. A continuous belay during climbing and all operations. E. Some people, especially lightweight climbers, find tubular belay devices to be slow for rappelling; Assisted-Braking Belay Devices. Clip the self-belay Sep 14, 2020 · The best belay device for beginners is the one you feel safe and confident using. 5-11 mm. Tubular Belay Devices for Climbing. Falling while climbing solo is extremely dangerous. Black Diamond ATC Sport . Be the first to receive critical beta about product updates, news and events, technical bulletins, and exclusive offers. It's not particularly well-suited for multi-pitch climbing, especially when belaying from above, and the bulkier and heavier design compared to other belay devices means it's not a great choice when weight matters. For example, one device might be used for indoor gym climbing and outdoor sport cragging. 3) The additional loop of aluminum is helpful for setting up a Z-rig rappel, which Aug 24, 2018 · The Smart 2. When the climber reaches the top, or if they fall, the device automatically catches the climber and slowly lowers them to the ground. And the rope slack is with the climber, not the belayer. May 26, 2017 · T he Petzl GRIGRI first appeared in 1991 and since then has pretty much been the market leader in assisted-braking belay devices. In keeping with the improvised character of self-rescue, we will assume that you don’t have a rope-solo device with you. Read our review to see why it's our climbing editor's first choice. Device Type Device Type Tube. Tube-style belay devices, also known as manual or tubular belay devices, consist of one or two tubes or elongated holes. 5 mm range. A: There are few different types of belay and rappel devices: tubulars, plate/figure 8 devices, guide-style tubulars, assisted braking devices, and active assisted braking devices. Jul 25, 2023 · An Overview of the Petzl Grigri. Since the inception of the original Grigri 1, the Grigri has continued to set the standard for belay devices with cam-assisted blocking (braking). Jul 11, 2024 · Almost 100% of the time, the best setup for this sort of belay is an auto-blocking tube device secured to the anchor in guide mode. Oct 1, 2021 · Assisted braking helps belayer protect climber when they fall and also makes descent easier. 0 is Mammut’s assisted belay device. Attach the self-belay devices. During that time it has undergone two design upgrades, in 2011 and 2016. Aug 13, 2024 · The Edelrid Pinch is a much-anticipated assisted braking belay device. P. Better than a GriGri for TR solo since the rope runs almost straight through the device in the open position so if you put some weight on the end of the rope, you don't have to manually pull it through. This type of device – also known as a self-braking, self-locking, auto-blocking or auto-locking device - is designed to react to a sudden force by locking down on the rope to catch and hold a fall. 4. The most tested and trusted auto belay in the world. Assisted braking belay devices (such as the GriGri) work to some extent, but are fairly unreliable for rope soloing and must be backed up with the technique described here anyway. CE 15kN Rope Grab,CE Certified Fall Arrestor Ascender, Flip Line Adjuster, Grip Clamp, Self-Locking Fall Protection Belay Device for Rock Climbing, Tree Arborist,Rescue,Fit for 12~13 MM Rope 4. These tubular belay devices are like the all-around champs, fitting into any Also known as auto-blocking, auto-locking, self-braking, or self-locking devices, assisted braking belay devices lock down on the rope to help a belayer catch and hold a fallen climber. Gloves and chalk; You’ll also need both active and passive protection equipment when climbing solo. At a Glance. Belay On. Not all belay devices are suitable for every type of climb. The most famous of these is the Grigri by Petzl. Apr 29, 2024 · Still, climbing hardware continues to evolve, from refinements on classic gear like belay devices, to more-ergonomic iterations of staples like quickdraws, to more compact and lighter designs. It is mainly used for sports climbing. The greatest advantage to these advanced tubular devices is that they can be used on multi-pitch climbs to bring up your second on a “direct belay,” where you attach the device itself to your anchor instead of yourself, and therefore can be almost TRUBLUE Auto Belay Innovation: Head Rush Technologies’ TRUBLUE Auto Belays offers industry-leading innovation and safety designed specifically for climbers. The Grigri is an assisted braking belay device designed for climbing inside or outdoors. Kong Duck) Progress-capture pulleys (e. Brake: Put the brake strand in the brake position, which is down in front of you. For more detailed information and instruction, we recommend learning from a certified mountain guide. Tubulars and plate style devices are good for rappelling, but they are not self-braking or auto-blocking and can be fatiguing to belay with. These two devices should be attached to your rope, per the device instructions. Petzl Micro Traxion) Ascenders and jumars (e. The GriGri+ also comes with an anti-panic feature to support new belayers that have a tendency to open the handle all of the way, leading to an uncontrolled descent, leaving you looking like a rookie on the wall. The Petzl GriGri+ adds security for beginner climbers with an “ anti-panic ” lever that stops the lowering mechanism if the lever is pulled too Why Assisted Braking is Necessary on your Belay Device. It functions similar to tube-style belay devices but offers superior bite when the leader falls or hangs for a while on the rope. Arrestyd Ltd have worked very hard through their knowledge and experience in the market to manufacture the products with what the target markets are looking for. Note that all normal belay attention/precautions apply, but just that there is now a backup to normal belay. M. device that will shorten your fall if you fall relatively upright and if the rope is free to lift up and lock the jaw. A good belay device should be reliable, easy to use, and compatible with your climbing style. It's the piece of equipment that controls the rope, allowing you to climb safely. g. Sounds pretty simple right? But how does it take up the slack, you ask? Jun 26, 2012 · In addition, this device is very handy at the crag. May 9, 2024 · Versatility. Dislikes. Product Registration is an important part of auto belay management and establishes an early and accurate record used throughout the service life of the device. Compared to ATCs and Figure 8s, safety features such as assisted braking keeps you safe if something were to happen to the belayer (like a rock falling on their head or a mountain goat pounces on them, or most likely, they stop paying attention for the single moment I fall, which propels them into the climbing wall head-first and they Dec 5, 2024 · The Petzl GriGri is an active assisted-braking device that performs well in every belaying and lowering task, earning our highest honor as the best belay device on the market. Attach the self-belay device to the fixed line, and clip it to the belay loop on your harness with a large locking carabiner. My final note would be, if you’re a pre-2009 Grigri user, to not go back and forth between the two devices, to avoid the belay confusion described above. The belay is more ergonomic and less constraining since the device is not attached to the belayer’s harness , and when the climber falls or weights the rope, the climber strand locks down on the brake strand and Jan 20, 2014 · Note: Never climb on a slack static rope using the toprope self-belay system. Easy sliding along the rope while climbing. Jan 7, 2019 · PETZL GRIGRI Belay Device - Belay Device with Cam-Assisted Blocking for Sport, Trad, and Top-Rope Climbing Visit the PETZL Store 4. Use another locking carabiner on the belay loop to clip into your backup knots as you climb. The most commonly used belay type also called an “ATC” or “tuber. ynlvfo nwjqngt nlxyc okuvm gwzrpj sayl mxive pqau sylya vkv