Climbing sling vs runner weight reddit. Just belay from the ground.

Climbing sling vs runner weight reddit Mostly because its easier to untie an overhand knot or a clove hitch with it, and if you fell on it while using as a PAS its much safer than dyneema (see this scary DMM video showing 2 foot direct falls on slings). Follower has a nut tool, maybe a water bottle. DMM climbing has some good videos and info on their website demonstrating this. dynamic is a moot point considering you should never take a direct fall on either spectra or nylon slings. (the sliding x is not redundant in the sling). You only use tubular webbing for climbing. There I found a quad easier and faster to setup than getting the right length with draws. Apr 25, 2012 · On slabs, the gear swings forward and gets in the way; on steeps, the gear sling swings back and feels like it is pulling you off. And I second the advice to get a 120cm sling for general purpose (anchor building, alpine draw, etc. And I absolutely agree on if the bolts are further spaced apart than usual. $11. You can also use them on natural features like trees, threads, and chickenheads. When my dyneema draws became rather fuzzy from use my partners started complaining about them & I replaced them with nylon. BLUE ICE Missions Light Sling. And keep in mind anyone on the internet with a strong opinion hasn't had enough experience yet. Flat webbings are what you typically see on your backpack straps. I tend to prefer the friends for the reasons you've mentioned. The motivation being it's plausible that between a 22kN dyneema sling, and some significantly weaker nylon sling, the dyneema presents a significantly higher risk of harm to the user. So, the benefit of a rabbit runner is more flexibility. Using a double length runner girth hitched to your tie-in, knotted as shown and clipped to your belay loop allows you to unclip one end from your belay loop and tether yourself to the anc Personally, I think the whole static vs. 5 cm (1 in) wide tubular webbing to build an anchor. 5, but don’t do this with a wired nut; the cinching action of the girth-hitch can cut the sling in a fall). This makes them the best choice for situations such as extending a belay device , replacing anchor webbing or attaching yourself to an anchor before abseiling . When rehabbing I put the sling through/around weights It’s a reasonable solution, adds little weight, provides an imperfect but usable backup should he drop his Guide, and equips him for self-rescue (a Guide, two friction hitches, and a sling make for a rope ascending system in a pinch. Paired with a carabiner and a sling I can put it around my foot and pull upwards or hang from a tree and pull down on when outdoors to warm up. How are slings constructed? Slings can be constructed in two ways: They can either be sewn or seamless. ) Climbers often clip in directly to bolted or gear anchors directly with slings, and climbing above them with no dynamic component is when things get dangerous. Dyneema slings, on the other hand, have a higher load capacity at exactly the same weight, and a smaller diameter – which makes them ideal for adventurous sport climbing, multi-pitch climbing, and alpine tours. The extra length is needed to ensure the ice screws are situated at least 30 cm apart, so they won’t both fail in case of an ice fracture. 1x 240cm nylon runner that is rarely used, only for the biggest trees (and often as a basket hitch) or when the three pieces are in wildly different spots. The melting temperature doesn't really matter either - I don't think there's been a single documented case of melted slings in alpine draws during proper use. I still usually have the extra biners racked as a football at the back of my harness in case I need them, but usually rack 4 or 5 slings on the sling (as shown in the video), maybe more if I am expecting a pitch with slung chickenheads for pro. and over the years have also seen many sport climbers bring a couple 60cm (and even longer sometimes??) alpine draws for their projects (difficult clips, minimising rope drag My climbing partner and I have been climbing outdoors for a few months and we use two 18mm Metolius nylon slings or a 10mm Black Diamond Dynex runner to set our tope rope. The home of Climbing on reddit. A prusik sling for a chalkbag belt is a good idea, the minitrax is redundant. There's a community for whatever you're interested in on Reddit. 95 - $22. A few slings are also made of a blend between the two types of fibers. Double check everything, and weight any new system you set up before you remove yourself from the old Been a long time since I used 60 cm nylon slings for the last time. At ~5 bucks a sling you can get 10 for 50 and be set for a normal rack. doubling the loop doubles the strength of the system. On my harness while climbing most multipitch routes I have a belay/rap device, an extra sling with a locker, and a couple extra biners. If weight is the issue, look for specialized alpine harnesses like the one linked before. You'll need about 10 feet of webbing to make a 4 foot sling. half the strength and weight of a normal sling. Its stronger to connect 2 slings with a carabiner or use a long sling, but it doesn't strike me as that silly of a thing to do as long as you know the outcome. As far as brands go, I absolutely recommend the mammut dyneema slings. Feb 11, 2016 · While alpine climbing, when weight reduction is a major goal, Dyneema is used for the majority of quickdraws, alpine draws and slings (this lightweight trend is only increasing). This is probably mostly a climbing myth perpetuated by the article that's quoted in the above link So currently I use a pre built quad with a 120cm sling for sport climbing. Aug 18, 2019 · In general, climbing slings these days are made of two different types of fibers: Dyneema (or another type of Ultra-High-Molecular-Weight Polyethelene), and Nylon. That's all been replaced by dynema slings. It has a recognizable aesthetic and is available in two different colors: a bright orange color that makes it easy to spot and distinguish, and a grey-rock colored version that blends more into the rock climbing wall environment. com Climbing Slings. dyneema slings is a long one and worth reading up on. You will typically use a 2. The one HUGE exception to my gear sling hatred is for some squeezes and OWs, where it is advantages to have the gear on a sling on the outside-side of your body. There is a third type of sling, made of cord similar to a climbing rope. I still use the odd 120 cm nylon slings here and there, as it's a little bit dynamic and it's easier to untie knots. Most alpine climbers will still take some tied nylon slings and/or prusik cord because they are the most versatile option for anchoring and securing the rappel. In a basket hitch, the rated working load was like 1. GM CLIMBING 16mm Nylon Sling Runner. ETA: I’m not concerned about climbing weight as much as overall pack weight for multi-day excursions. Just belay from the ground. If that's your SWL, using the 5:1 ratio, you'd want 2000lb (~10kN) rated gear. rock horns for protection, or to connect you to an anchor. Typically still over 10kn. in practice this increases overall breaking strength by about 1. One belay device and an extra locker is plenty. 6 million pounds. If you can find second hand I highly recommend. 95 How to Choose Climbing Slings, Cord and Webbing. the single strand now has to take half the shared load. Think I'm the only one that's gone back to nylon. The most important items IMHO are shoes with good grip on slick granite and good gloves that can grip the cables (I think I chose a pair of weight lifting gloves). Dyneema. The reality is, most of us use it on our draws, most of us use it in situations where falls aren't very common, and when dynema/dynex fails it's almost always when people girth two pieces of soft gear together, not from a crazy fall onto a sling. rated strength is not the same concept as durability in an anchor, the most important aspect is not a single component's rated strength. If price is the issue, just buy the cheapest certified harness available, that's like $35. g. I am a fan of Sterling power cord after only one climb. And if you are dealing with 2 nonlocking QDs when cleaning, clip PAS to 1 bolt. Hi, new to reddit so dont even know if this is likely to get an answer but worth a shot. Dynex is a brand name for “high-molecular-weight polyethylene” fiber, which is essentially the same exact material that makes up Dyneema or any of the non-Nylon choices in this review. I personally dont like using sport draws for trad climbing so I carry 10 regular shoulder length slings and 2 double length slings on longer stuff, all racked with 2 carabiners on my harness. for cams, draws, and anything else) after 7-10 years maximum, regardless of wear and tear (and of course earlier if damaged). Top belaying is often awkward in the best situations, I can't imagine doing it if there were an alternative. the knot might snag. 1x 120cm nylon runner tied into what I call a "baby quad". I find that large cuts to lose weight quickly (1lb/week for example) also cause my performance to slip, I'm crankier, and feel more injury prone. If the 1st blows your gonna take a bit of a fall onto the second. The slings were like 6” in diameter and like 20’ long. Yea seems like they aren’t making them anymore. Yes, you could achieve the same with weights, but I find that say for weight x, up to that weight, it feels like it won't move off the ground, and so it is far harder to determine when you're ready. If you don't have a belay device with a 'guide mode' you can belay from the top using a redirect. On the back loops I keep 6-8 alpine draws (single length) and then 2-3 double lengths over my shoulder with a biner clipped on them. Do a slow gradual cut. No real reason, just the nylon slings were really cheap & the weight and bulkiness doesn't bother me (except if you use them with those small ultra-light 'biners but I hate those things How many slings with a single biner do y’all carry vs alpine draws? I’m tempted to cut down to 6 alpines to save a few oz on biners, as I don’t foresee placing more than 6 nuts per pitch, but I’m kind of nervous about not having enough. I was freaked out after watching the video, Break Nylon & Dyneema Slings , and I was wondering if you guys could provide me your thoughts about the safety of our Dynex runner. In my opinion the extendable sling doesn't often offer enough extension to avoid using/carrying draws and n most cases, but will create an added margin of safety by allowing you to extend to avoid a feature that might cause the draw to unclip or lever over an edge. Also slings tend to last quite a long time - I have had mine for at least a thousand pitches of climbing and they are holding up. Reddit is a network of communities where people can dive into their interests, hobbies and passions. rated strength is NOT even close to a direct measure of safety, since an anchor is a system and no single component should ever be subjected to the breaking strength of a cord. It saves a good amount of weight compared to the bulkier tied slings and they work just as well. As an aside I don't think anyone outside of totally new climbers pay full price for slings. As explained @ 1:30-1:35 it's for redundancy. 3, this works for wires, too) you’ll shorten the extension. These are identical to a normal sling in strength and weight. I’m looking into getting into more alpine climbing so I was wondering what’s best for me moving on. And yes we are scared of falling. Most common applications are alpine draws, slinging e. Draws made from slings and biners (aka alpine draws) are nice for trad climbing when you're climbing multiple pitches below your limit. That being said, if you’ve got rope to spare for anchor building you certainly gain a lot of ease in connecting pieces (don’t have to fiddle with making static arms and other weird configurations). Since you're asking about trad climbing, at some point in your career you're going to have to untie and thread your sling or use it for rap tat. You can usually get them 40% off if you shop the sales. Usually bring 8-10 alpine shoulder length draws, 3 double length slings with carabiners over the shoulder ( for extension, anchor building, slinging shit, and rap tether), and often like 4 regular lightweight sport draws. But it's like $15 (extra vs sling) you'll live to tell the tale. I swear this is the first thing that anyone told me when I started climbing. Pick just the extension you need and no more. the nylon vs dynema thing isn't anything new. The slings they had were these specialty endless slings made of Kevlar in some fancy higher denier nylon. I almost never climb with a gear sling, for this reason. Climbing in Yosemite, for example, will often give you two bolts in close proximity if you have bolted anchors at all. Generally recommended to replace soft goods (nylon/dyneema cord, slings, etc. 1x 120cm nylon runner, often used for a clove v configuration or girthing a medium tree when I'm not worried about redundancy. If I had to use double length slings, I would almost certainly use a cordelette. They allow two different options for extension, ~20cm or 60cm. I still bring a few tied slings for leaving on rap anchors, trees, etc so that I don't have to leave one of the $10 suckers. best to gain experience using slings, cord, rope and develop a feel for what works best for YOU in THAT situation. Mar 13, 2024 · If you’re short on biners, try girth-hitching a cam’s sling (fig. but it needs more replacing. My solution has been to take the long view. A sling can be used as an extended quickdraw to allow your rope to run straighter and decrease friction on wandering routes, or it can be used to set up an anchor. 240mm dyneema/nylon sling is also great, especially if you're not worried about complicated belay stations. This. a basic knot will reduce the strength of the rope by ~50% as a general guideline. By doubling the runner through the cam’s sling (fig. 6 is a good start if you supplement with sport draws for long pitches. if it is, you did something else very wrong. Clip another QD between the bolts. In a girth hitch they were like 300,000ish pounds. TL;DR: If you like Oz carabiners the runner sets are a great deal. Add Titan/Spectra Runner - 9/16'' to Compare . No one-size-fits all in either climbing style (blocks vs swing) or anchor building (slings vs rope). Nylon has the knot and some stretch to help your anchor survive. . Usually around 16-20mm wide, nylon climbing slings are much bulkier (and more durable) than lightweight 6-14mm Dyneema slings. You should clip your PAS to both bolts if possible. Basically, once the ends are clipped together it’s identical to a normal sling. Runner/ Sling. People who are good at losing weight aren't good at it because they aren't hungry, they are just good at ignoring it. For peace of mind, the added weight and cost of a useful protection system may or may not be worth it to you. the accessory cord is not climbing specific so it's rated for single line loads and lists the breaking Jul 2, 2018 · I have been using the clove hitch with a Dyneema sling (Clove Hitch Trad Anchor) to build my anchors, but after watching the DMM Video(DMM Sling test) of them breaking slings, with the knotted Dyneema breaking at way less than the knotted Nylon sling, I am considering changing to the Nylon 240cm sling. In short, nylon is heavier and stretchier, while dyneema slings are lighter, less absorbent, and more slippery. A 7-8mil nylon cord would be a better choice for making anchors in general and when you get more experience you can figure out what's worth saving weight on. I'm a beginner sport climber though, so weight is not really an issue for me at this stage. Apr 11, 2023 · A rabbit runner is a normal sling, cut open. Personally, I have a 7mm, 6mm, and 240mm sling in my closet since I like variety and they're inexpensive as far as trad climbing gear goes. sling of the purple c3 (only bd cam i own) See full list on outdoorgearlab. You should also become more c Posted by u/hnbike - 2 votes and 10 comments I'd say it's a fine purchase, OP, particularly for sport climbing. Cheers. If you don't feel safe clipping in with one PAS, back it up with a sling girth hitched to your tie in point with a locker on the other end. I like to use a runner-runner (aka sling-sling) to free up some biners and room on my harness. There are 2 types of webbings — tubular webbing and flat webbing. The second bolt is your backup if the first fails. Sep 14, 2006 · I used tied runners for a long time until I found the super-light weight 8mm Mammut sewn slings. It may adjust when being weighted though. I usually rack my nuts at the front of my front gear loops and cams running smallest to largest at the back (also front loops). ) nylon sling will last much longer and hold up to more wear and tear so would be a good option for your first sling. Tubular webbings can be sewn or tied to form a runner or sling. Gloves only for aid or FA. Specifically, buying oz runner kits and splitting the silver biners that come with them into two draws using a spare runner and two orange hoodwires. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. In climbing your max sustained load is going to be approximately body weight, or maybe twice that if you have 2 people hanging from an anchor, say 400lb (2kN). Though it can be made a number of ways, a sling (also known as a runner) is typically created by sewing a webbing section into a loop. As long as you leave your locker clipped into the sling and either locked back on your belay loop or clipped through the loop on your sling that you use to rap it should be safe because the sling can't unravel. 1. Use a water knot and leave 3" tails. Even on my quickdraws and on my cams (DMM Drangons): less weight, lower bulk. Sling Length I use double length nylon sling to extend rappel or make a PAS for cleaning. Just totally absurd and your video reminded me of those I don't think it's a good idea - I imagine catching a lead fall could injure the belayer since the sling is really too thin to spread the load. The only issue I can see with making your own is if you make a normal length sling, and double it so it's shorter as a quick-draw, there might be some hanky panky if you're trying to extend it to the regular length by unclipping the biner, clipping 1 strand and then pulling. Jun 15, 2020 · Nylon slings could be made weaker by using less material to get compete better with dyneema slings in size/weight. A fall factor 1 fall on a dyneema sling can break things. Apr 12, 2019 · The Black Diamond Dynex Sewn Runner is one of the highest scoring, and most economical, slings in this comparative review. 5x the single line rated load. 5kg of force. I just have a pre rigged sling on my rack where I just have to clip the bolts and have a bomber anchor with minimal extension. The girth-hitch masterpoint at an ice-screw belay, using a 120 cm sling. If you're on a budget, maybe the long knotted sling would have been more cost effective but both do the job, and there some real conveniences to the PAS. Slings, runners Jan 13, 2022 · Ice-Screw Belay: A very similar rigging works with ice screws as well, but uses a double-length (120 cm) runner instead. I usually only need two single length slings to create the anchor. The GM Climbing 16mm Nylon Sling Runner is very thin and durable. Climbing slings and carabiners rated for 15-20kN. Preventing a fall is priority #1. 20kg feels impossible to lift even if you're producing 19. You can use dyneema slings in a redundant anchor but you would need multiples. The discussion over nylon vs. Im getting more into trad climbing where obviously alpine draws are pretty much your go to for clipping your rope to cams, nuts etc. The stiffness is great to shove it through the tunnel. only exceptions: two kevlar/aramid slings for tunnels. same as everything in climbing, the situation determines best practice. i use dyneema for everything. I have a big background in backpacking and long hikes. I have a double rack of cams, one set friends, one set C4s. Aug 31, 2020 · Black Diamond Nylon Runner; Petzl ANNEAU Polyester Sling; How to Choose the Best Climbing Slings for Your Needs Nylon vs. I hope that helps anyone here or future google search users that land on this page. mbe gfqkxn nhtonp rofn yut raq dukbua iqk mlgm hldyt