Lead rope solo devices for sale Apr 23, 2023 · In reply to. Avant founder Brent Barghahn created these innovations to reach parity with his live belay ascents, sending 5. Which . Rope-solo climbing or rope-soloing (or self-belaying) is a form of solo climbing (i. It is worth noting that the shunt has to invert for this to happen. Its specialized engineering and full stainless-steel construction make it THE Device for Lead Rope Solo Climbing. As the weight of the rope beneath the device increases as you climb, the feed resistance also increases. Basically, the two rope ends of the clove hitch need to come out on the carabiner side of the SP, not the rope retaining pin side. 8 m. 14 rope solo style. The device is INCREDIBLE for TRS!!! As for LRS, it is slightly better than the Soloist because the rappel with the LOV goes much better and the system for TRS is incredible too! I attach the LOV3 using the Petzl Swivel Open. All this assumes perfect conditions, of course. Now, they are available for purchase! Now, they are available for purchase! Feb 27, 2021 · For leading with the rope in a pack the Eldelrid Eddy worked best because of the direction of rope feed. Falling with slack in your system will significantly increase the forces that these devices put on your rope, which can result in the de-sheathing of your rope in extreme cases. Lead Solo: Soloist: This is the device I use. Or it may lead you to choose to Rope Solo. Jun 18, 2020 · Gstring Climbing Grips Grigri lead rope solo Grigri hack Gstring Classics Gstring PROs RipCord RollBar adjusting difficulty hangboard lead rope-solo strength training 3D-Sling Chalkbag Chris Webb Parsons Gallows Gstring PRO Hanchor Lead Rope Solo Mt. May 21, 2025 · This carabiner add-on is overkill in the best way possible, designed to significantly increase the safety of your primary lead rope solo device carabiner, or to orient top rope solo devices for best feeding. sh/wideboyz08211All your questions you asked me about rope s Dec 5, 2024 · The Trango Vergo is a fantastic device for belaying the leader, providing an ergonomic and intuitive way to pay out slack without compromising the brake assist. There are a few really good purpose built devices on the market that don't have the flaws and failure modes the old petzl kit has. Jul 12, 2023 · Overall the device was in usual shape and condition. Sep 19, 2022 · That’s perfect for conventional belay devices; not so great for top rope solo device. The rope is tied around a drum via a clove hitch. Where other units draw the user to compromise the belay by holding down a camming rope pinch, the Vergo pinches the rope by rotating the entire device when weighted. I also explain how to build the anchor on a sp Jan 14, 2023 · It's smaller, so a bit lighter and according to petzl works with ropes up to 11mm, but I've seen a few videos which claim it doesn't work very well with 10/11mm ropes especially old furry fat ones, which is probably relevant for top rope solo given it mostly seems to be done using nice reassuring thick ropes. 4 to 10. The world's most ergonomic belay device. I hope you will find it useful and not overly complicated to use. e. In unserem Beitrag zeigen wir dir vorerst nur die Technik, wie ihr euch beim Toprope-Klettern selbst sichern könnt. 5 (the best results are with ropes from 9. On the other hand, if your looking for a nice device to top-rope solo, my Soloist's for sale. 5 mm, but just about any thick rope you find on sale should be fine (thicker ropes are harder to feed through most device's though, but the 10. Lead soloing and top rope soloing are both very doable, common, and relatively safe when done by an experienced climber. The Vergo emphasizes ergonomics and human-device interaction to deliver exceptionally safe performance. The drum spins freely in either direction, feeding rope as the knot slips, until a certain speed is reached, which locks the device. Universal Fit for Every Climber: Fully adjus Dec 5, 2017 · when the rope gets cross loaded in the device (so rope not going tuber to tuber) which can be pretty common when catching a fall/ even the weight of taking a climber, the clasp that initially closes the device comes undone and the device swivels open a bit. Other devices. So while the device actually weighs half of what the Lov2 does, it feels a bit heavier while climbing because of the additional drag. However afaik it's made for lead rope solo, so a different use case from yours. 0 is specifically designed and tested to give the climber a secure way for solo climbing while leading; without the need of a partner that gives you a belay. Lead Rope Solo Chest Harness Quick Facts: Who it's for? - Advanced climbers What it does? - A chest harness for firmly orienting your LRS device. The document has moved here. The process is simple; as you climb the rope feeds out from your bag (your spare rope), through your self-feeding solo device, and creates 'climbing rope' for you to progress upwards. granted there is a locking carabiner holding the 2 halves of the unit together and 656 likes, 7 comments - avant_climbing_innovations on May 21, 2025: "This carabiner add-on is overkill in the best way possible, designed to significantly increase the safety of your primary lead rope solo device carabiner, or to orient top rope solo devices for best feeding. Hello and welcome to my first instructable. By adding a secondary attachment point with a breaking strength of 40-60 kg, this modification offers an ideal angle for solo climbing with a GriGri. Solo Belay Devices “It don’t gotta be fun to be fun. Alex Huber has put up 14- multipitch routes rope solo, ground up. It’s also removable, so you can return your GriGri to its original state anytime. Check out the Petzl ASAP, a well-regarded fall arrest device: Rope soloing is a technique where you belay yourself instead of being belayed by your partner. Pete Whittaker sent the Freerider in a day, rope solo style. Jun 6, 2020 · I know that roped soloing is a very personal choice of activity and also that most commonly used belay devices are not recommended for this use by the manufacturers. I use a Trango Vergo as a backup. I noticed that often when people do rope lead solo with a Grigri they have the device oriented backwards, with the lever pointing to their body instead of out, as you would normally have while belaying. It is important to mention that all the results looked identical. Jan 22, 2019 · Lead rope soloing I do not think is that uncommon in the big wall/trad world of climbing. It also allows the use of ropes with a diameter from 9. Subjects include: general principles, devices-specific recommendations, suggested knots, belay anchors, self rescue and more! It includes the Vergo, NEOX, Pinch, Silent Partner, Soloist, El Mudo 2. Without modifying your gri-gri, I don't know of any way to get the rope to feed hands-free. Since we will not evaluate you on the wall all the time, we cannot make you Rope Soloers but we still want to help you reach more confidence on your Sep 15, 2021 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. I'm not talking about a huge difference though, and it certainly feeds better than any other ABD on the market. I use the Soloist, but I think they stopped manufacturing it. More complicated techniques are needed to solo an overnight alpine route or aid-solo a big wall. The closest is Type 8 in EN 15151-1 and in the UIAA 129. There are many different systems to use, each with its own set of advantages and disadvantages. With both setups, getting the right rope pairing was critical for good feed and lock-up. Compatible Devices: Petzl GriGri+ GriGri (2019 version) GriGri 2 NEOX This accessory allows you to use your GriGri for Lead Rope Solo (LRS) climbing without altering the device permanently. Rope bags are a vital tool for anything that’s longer than one pitch, allowing the rope to feed out without snags (a tangle forty metres below you on a OP wants to lead rope solo, meaning climbing away from a fixed anchor and feeding out rope. 0, which seems like it is hard to get ahold of currently. When using assisted-braking belay devices for a rope solo, there is always Our videos are intended to give you more knowledge to make safer decisions for yourself. Increase Carabiner Peace-of-Mind with AVANT's Unique Flex-Link Device Side Crossload Protector Increase security in your rope solo climbing with the Flex-Link. Attempting to use these devices for LRS l does not reccomend using their devices for top rope solo but still recognizes people do it anyway and has good information on the safest methods. It's basically a Grigri but the rope runs through it in a straight way when unlocked, so it feeds a bit better (didn't compare to a proper ascender). ” ~ Carl Tomblin. I think it would be a waste to use a treated rope, or a light, good handling lead rope. I suspect that if the clove is oriented the other way, when the rope comes tight during a fall, it could bend the non-carabiner side of the device (as it's just a fin of aluminum with a pin). Clear physical and visual indicators reaffirm correct usage, and the geometry reduces the likelihood of misuse. El Mudo is gaining international recognition, not only for being the only commercially available device/system but also for its design, which is fundamentally intended for Rope Solo Climbing—whether in Top Rope Solo (TRS) or Lead Rope Solo (LRS). As far as top rope solo just, go for a micro traxion. ( I've sent 200+ pitches with it). We prefer to use the grabbiest possible device that we can still coax into auto-feeding because they will engage most reliably in a fall while allowing us to climb relatively unencumbered. Really psyched to get this, hope to get it a little after launch and see what happens if i whip on it. You can use this technique to lead or top rope belay. There is never a need to override the device, even when feeding slack for a clip. Nov 26, 2022 · This is my setup for following the pitches when I lead rope solo multipitch routes. Only the basic technique is described here. Conclusion(personal opinion): I think that the Revo (especially modified) is very well suited for lead rope solo climbing. For the current status, please refer to our user manual. Lukasz Dudek sent a wildly overhanging 14b multipitch in the alps LRS style. Purchase your "Flex-Link" Anti-Crossload Protector on the Avant webstore. Sep 30, 2022 · See the lead rope solo facebook group for discussions. 4 seconds to reach 4 m/s which translates to a fall distance of 0. EN 15151-1 type 6 8. The silent partner does this, plus it can sense a fall and grab as if it were a brake hand. I agree with certification sort of. If you wanna solo lead shell out the $$$ for the Silent Partner. It is a great pleasure to share our knowledge on Lead Rope Solo with all of you. Our work schedules keep us from climbing with a partner. Sep 17, 2012 · Right now I'm using a Mammut Apex 10. 5 still feeds well through my cinch). Cotton leads are a favorite for their soft and supple feel, while nylon leads offer the widest range of colors with no sun fade at a low cost. TRS (Top Rope Solo) and EN 567 6 ≤ Ø ≤ 11 mm ≥ 12 kN – dynamic rope EN 892 – accessory cord EN 564 or semi-static rope EN 1891, with energy absorber EN 355 Gear Solutions for the Core Rock Climber: including product offerings for lead rope solo, top rope solo, multipitch, and trad (traditional) rock climbing. The first 1,000 people to use this link will get a 1 month free trial of Skillshare: https://skl. I felt it important to mention that I noticed (before trying it in anger) that it is easy to end up with the Birdie at a particularly dangerous angle so that it doesn't engage. It may lead you to chose to NOT Rope Solo even on top rope. I believe a Kong Duck or CT Rollnlock could be used as the lower device, but I am not sure there would be enough space for those devices on top without the cam potentially hitting the other device. It seems like Alex is likely a predecessor to Fabian in a similar GriGri1 with multiple cache loops method. I use two strands of rope fo I forgot to link to the Petzl article May 9, 2001 · I've got a Soloist - doesn't work badly for top-roping - but I wouldn't use it for leading. How do you fix the rope to a strand when abseiling? The rope can be locked at the anchor as shown in this video at 03:00 minutes. I have a Duck I can test with it tomorrow or Oct 30, 2024 · In partner belaying, the belay device is usually attached to the belayer's harness. When I can't find a partner I don't mind rope soling also with a grigri is not perfect. We are currently preparing a separate video May 14, 2022 · Oddly enough, the best rope for top rope soloing using the one-rope-two-devices method is not either of the classic climbing ropes! Many climbers, including myself, prefer a semi-static rope. Entsprechend müsst ihr entweder eine Route wählen, bei der ihr zu Fuss den Stand (Umlenker) erreicht oder in der euch eine Person (Familienmitglied, Drittperson im Klettergarten) beim ersten Go im Vorstieg zum Einrichten einmal sichert. Everest Pocket Rocks Top Rope Solo Trango Vergo adjusting adjusting difficulty. Our team field tested all of these products, climbing big walls in Yosemite and Zion, using them for rescue training on glaciers, and as top-rope solo devices at crags. A video I have been meaning to make for some time: I explain how to use a Solist Device for lead rope soloing. How it does it? - Built with integrated elastic zones, the harness allows for natural shoulder movement. I'll break down common devices, and how to use them for different applications. Used, not heavily, usual dings from being trucked around. Ascender devices cannot feed out rope and then act as a brake hand. This essential add-on is designed to significantly increase the safety of your primary lead rope solo device carabiner, or to stabilize your top rope solo devic Lead ropes and lunge lines are available in many colors, lengths, materials, and hardware choices. It would take 0. The device for Lead Rope Solo Climbing. Update: This video is far from an instructional work, but please note that the blue rope is oriented incorrectly in the device; the rope should enter and exi Nov 19, 2024 · This reduces the risk of the rope pulling out as Midgen has alluded to. That said, compared to a Grigri it's easier to misuse it while lead belaying and I never lend mine to people who belay me. These skills are outside the scope of this article. In this instruc… - Easy to install the rope with diagram engraved on the belay device - Feeding slack and catching falls are accomplished using techniques standard to all Petzl belay devices, always keeping a hand on the brake side of the rope - Cam-assisted blocking offers leeway for the brake-side hand position, regardless of the angle between the climber Aug 21, 2020 · Rope Solo im Toprope. I wouldn't solo lead with the gri-gri, unless you are talking about aid climbing. The Duck is a single rope device, there was something about using a single rope with a shunt that I didn't like although I don't know why! May 21, 2024 · This comprehensive review compares 13 of today's top options, offering you expert advice on which one is best for different situations. The shunt and ascender were never designed for top rope solo or lead rope solo, one of the best bit of kit I've seen on the market so far that works really well for top rope solo is the Taz Love 2 and 3 as they are rated for progress capture Aug 14, 2018 · Now you have set up your belay, attached appropriately via your solo device, stacked your rope and decided on a backup, you're ready to climb. performed alone without a climbing partner), but unlike with free solo climbing, which is also performed alone and with no climbing protection whatsoever, the rope-solo climber uses a mechanical self-belay device and rope system, which enables them to use the standard climbing protection to protect Elevate Your Lead Rope Solo Climbing with Our Minimal Chest Harness Designed for the dedicated redpoint rope soloist, AVANT's Minimal Chest Harness provides the perfect balance of function and freedom, ensuring your lead rope solo free climbs are as unencumbered as possible. Jun 29, 2022 · With that, let's assume that you just clipped and the rope is snug. Each device will provide a different balance between auto-feeding and grabbiness. El Mudo 3. This is one reason conventional fall-arrest devices haven’t become hugely popular for top rope soloing. Any significant rope slippage can shock-load the ascender and drop you lower on the route. There is currently only one device on the market that is marketed as a lead rope solo device, the El Mudo 2. Jan 26, 2023 · Hi, I have a question about rope soloing with a Grigri. In the event of a fall, many components of the belay chain absorb part of the fall energy: the rope stretches, rope runs through the system, friction on carabiners and all surfaces converts energy into heat, harnesses compress, and the bodies of the individuals convert energy into deformation. Feb 21, 2017 · Alexander K wrote:For lead solo, everyone is waiting on the WC Revo. Or stick to aid and get the solo-aid. Sep 20, 2018 · As a self-belay device—a device purpose-designed for rope-solo climbing on lead—the Silent Partner uses a centrifugal clutch to stop a fall. Also the creator has a facebook page with videos of the device in use. 0, El Mudo 3. 8 mm). 0, Revo, Eddy, Grigri 1, Grigri 2, Grigri (2019/3), Grigri Plus, Gob Feb 3, 2022 · The climber is tied into the lead end of the rope, but it isn’t a load-bearing attachment point while ascending. Check out our universal fitting neck lanyard for top rope soloing - no modifications needed to pair with your TRS devices! Feb 10, 2011 · If you’re on a big wall you will probably need a second haul line/ rap line, and I tend to go for a 10mm dynamic, so I’ve got a spare rope in case the lead line gets trashed. Apr 12, 2022 · I have the Soloist and my bro has the Silent Partner. 0 is specifically designed and tested El Mudo 2. El Mudo 2. For free climbing, solo on lead, you want a proper device. Is this rated for lead rope soloing? We are currently in the process of evaluating the PINCH for rope soloing. Safety Notice: Important: Petzl officially prohibits using the GriGri and NEOX for Lead Rope Solo . I often opt to top rope solo both when working out moves on a project but more commonly on easier routes for some climbing milage. It appears to be the Holy Grail of lead solo devices. fmck:. 2 mm – dynamic rope EN 892. Rope Bags. So why does no company currently make a rope solo device? Because it's dangerous and YER GUNNA DIE! ️ That's the only device you need for going alone to climbing a route. Some photos are included. ! El Mudo 3. Until recently I had been climbing Lead Rope Solo since 2012 because I had no one to climb with. 4 to 9. As a horse handler, it's a simple pleasure to have a favorite go-to lead rope! May 4, 2023 · Set up the rope going through the Taz Lov with the brake strand from the Taz going into the Revo (which side of the Revo DOES matter, one side of the Revo will be directly above the Taz and it must enter the Revo on this side to feed well), attach the Taz upright to its tether, and take your Revo backup sling and attach that to a belay biner on the second belay loop. However, there are some that still will work well for soloing. For top rope solo a trax primary is fine. I used my LOV3 again today for both Lead Rope Solo (LRS) and Top Rope Solo Climbing (TRS). The Petzl GriGri+, in top rope mode, is our preferred device. Versatile belay and braking device with manual-assisted slide locking, ideal for lead and top rope climbing. I have been using a Revo to lead rope solo for a few years and the falls can be longer than with other devices in some situations. 9 ≤ Ø ≤ 10. ". This accessory allows you to use your GriGri for Lead Rope Solo (LRS) climbing without altering the device permanently. The smoothest feeding devices use a pulley paired with a ribbed or toothed cam. No need to switch devices for lowering. It is important that these devices feed smoothly without allowing the accumulation of slack. I'm wondering why they do this. It also allows the use of ropes with a diameter from 9. They only take in rope. Roped Solo (lead) Climbing With Grigri: WARNING: Climbing is inherently dangerous! Climbing solo is even more dangerous, follow this instructable at your own risk. Join the Lead Rope Solo group on FBtons of good (and some bad) info. 0 has been redesigned to offer more breaking power, with any brand of rope, so now there's no creep when you're hanging on the rope. There is no specific test type for testing a lead rope solo device. I prefer my Soloist because I watched my bro go inverted during a lead fall on overhanging terrain. Moved Permanently. Semi-static rope is commonly marketed as caving or canyoneering rope. gjul ptvds twngd rookg ozudcsdm girkt ojyfdh dcfndd vsy pnk