Mountain climbing cam size chart. This goes for belay anchors as well as running .

Mountain climbing cam size chart I would without hesitation say the first two cams I would double would be . The world’s best-selling, most trusted cam. Add Cams. 8 (gold cam; actually exists). 75 (Grey Dragon/Camalot), Green 0. Other full-sized climbing cam sets include Black Diamond C4 Camalots, Black Diamond Ultralight Cams, Totem Cams, and Metolius Ultralight Master Cams. So the larger pieces could be good for aid climbing but not so much free climbing. Their unique design works in pockets and holes where others simply can't fit. Characteristics: Superb holding power with the exclusive Direct Loading system. it would be pretty annoying. So, cam range isn’t really an applicable comparison for how useful a totem will be compared to a different cam design. A larger cam is usually better. Black Diamond Blue #. xls Author: 06 Created Date: 9/30/2010 3:06:27 PM The world’s best-selling, most trusted cam. Production of the size 1 Dragonfly was a notable achievement as the smallest certified climbing cam. Cam Comparison Chart ROCK RON . 4 – 28. For those whose spirit is on the mountain face, where this climbing cam necklace as a reminder of your passion for the sport. We were initially skeptical that these lightweight climbing cams wouldn't hold up as well as their predecessors, but after a couple of years of use at this point, they've held many falls, been up quite a few large walls, and are in just as good a shape as when we bought them. Jan 30, 2018 · Totem Cams are our favorite cams for aid climbing because of their ability to engage only two lobes at a time, allowing for an endless array of strange, body-weight-only placements, multiple clip-in points, and super narrow heads, even in the larger hand sizes. 1 or 0. Now the DMM Dragon 2 cam aims to make the cam more secure in the most marginal of placements making it the Exact dimensions for each size vary slightly, depending on the nut maker and the nut shape. 5 Moved Permanently. 5 plus three offset sizes. It also gets into the weight/active range trade-off if you were to, say, rack a cam versus a hex or tricam. When placing a cam always align it in the direction it will be pulled in a fall. Other passive pro includes tri-cams, Hexentrics ® (hexes) and tube chocks. We also have an extensive range of small and micro cams in kits or singles for Wild Country Zero Friends, Black Diamond Z4 Camalots, and FIXE Alien Revolution Cams. Mid-sized cams will protect the most common sizes of cracks at moderate grades, so mid-size cams are the most important first cams to purchase if you are building a rack. Be careful to make sure it is talking about cam sizes and not inches. This goes for belay anchors as well as running Ultralight Master Cams are for general all around free climbing with small to medium crack sizes. Aug 21, 2020 · This means the X4 will fit in smaller placements. 3 to 4, some C3s, and a blue X4 (always forget the number) in addition to tricams and nuts. Weight. Dec 19, 2019 · Step 3: Double up the finger sizes (3 cams), add in 1-3 micro cams, buy a set of micro nuts (usually 6-8 nuts), add another #3 and a #4 sized cam. Compare their sizes on cam comparison charts. Placement is secure, but may move to an insecure position. The document has moved here. Climbing a desert crack when various design features may come in handy. Cam Comparison Chart "What's the equivalent?" Searching for new cams or piecing together a rack with a new climbing partner can feel like an overwhelming task at times, this comparison chart aims to make that easier. For large cams, it should be from 10 to 14 kilonewtons, while the smaller cams should have the lower ratings. 32" Ultralight Power Cams are for mid range crack sizes or for splitter cracks in desert sandstone, granite or columnar basalt. C3s might be slightly more useful in the smallest sizes because of their narrower head width. 75 would be better off being a #1. 4 – #3) a comparable set of Master Cams (#2 – #8), needing an additional cam to cover the range, weighs 240 grams less than the standard BD C4. Nov 6, 2018 · Andy Lei wrote: I'm having some trouble finding published ranges for these older cams. Like all Camalots from No. From decreasing weight to improving ergonomics, we’re always finding ways to elevate our protection. Well, trad climbing is your answer! Unlike the early days, modern trad climbers have access to gear such as spring-loaded camming devices, commonly known as cams. When evaluating a set of cams, it can be helpful to look at what the total range of sizes the full set covers. 9–9. Apr 18, 2024 · At least where I’ve been climbing you don’t often find perfectly parallel placements at those ranges and honestly if they don’t sit perfectly, I find it hard to trust those sizes. I have noticed that the Totem colors (that you show in the chart) to Alien colors are not equal- all the totem are slightly bigger then Alien- which is good, I carry 1 of each for more options. 5 as those are always the sizes I'm able to place, but find myself wanting to "save them for later" due to their versatility. While the original unit had two placements (one passive, one active), the Aug 25, 2015 · There are four sizes of Basic Cam: Red 0. 8 (rated to 5kN; protects from 7. the load. Many guidebooks have a chart in them comparing the cam sizes of various manufacturers, although they dont typically show the full range of each piece. Typically climbers buy offset cams after they already own "regular" equal lobed cams. Oct 1, 2020 · So you’ve taken up climbing, but decided that sport climbing is too soft and you’re looking for a bit more grit, pain, and fear. 5), Metolius Master Cams (Old style size . 4 on up, the Nos. 7 (red cam; actually exists), No. Cam Size Product Code Colour Active Strength Passive Strength Weight Range Certification; Set / 00-1: A73500/1A: Assorted: 10-14kN: 9-14kN: 263g: EN12276:2013 UIAA 125 Frictional Anchors A guide to the basics of crack climbing, a special type of rock climbing that ascends splitter and dihedral cracks like those found in the deserts of Utah and Colorado and other places. Unlike Unlike other charts and catalogs that just give absolute minimums and maximums you can't use, this provides Compare different climbing cams. 5 as a #1 and gone up from there and left all the X4 / C3 as single numbers below that but whatever they are named what Rock climbing friends / cams, cam sets & rocks & stoppers & more Wide range of products FREE shipping options! Wild Country® USA. 5, #2 could still be a #2, a #0. Apr 3, 2020 · From left: the No. 488 Rifle Mountain Park. If you save it for yourself, you can move groups of columns around. 21 (gold cam; doesn’t exist), and the No. I really see this start at the 0. Moved Permanently. Sep 6, 2013 · The Tricam is a puzzling piece: It’s delightfully simple, with no active—or moving—parts, yet it has more potential uses than either a spring-loaded camming device (SLCD) or a standard nut. However the X4 in the bigger sizes can get floppy making it hard to place and even harder to remove. The trend in the climbing world has been to make gear lighter and May 15, 2019 · if you are going to put out technical info, you should have a technical person do it, not somebody who majored in interpretive art therapy. 5 days ago · Trigger keeper in action on the Black Diamond #4 Quick Review. While I get greater range out of each individual cam from BD (#0. Includes how to information on finger jams, hand jams, off widths, cam sizes, and other details. Individual cams come in a huge range of sizes, from micro-sized cams that fit the tinniest 1/4”-sized fissures of rock, to 6”, 7”, even 8”-sized off-width/chimney-sized cracks. Anybody know the min and max expansions for these cams? pre-C4 BD; Metolius Powercam sizes #9 and 10 Moved Permanently. My Rack. Sep 30, 2012 · Typically one should aim to place a cam at 50 - 90% lobe retraction for microcams and 30 - 90% for all other sizes. I used to own size 1 and 2 C3s, but I sold them in favor of Totem Basics and small TCUs. Some brands also make an even smaller size 0 nut. 34 Mar 1, 2023 · The climbing cam’s strength is also essential in looking for a climbing cam. Aug 25, 2018 · Whether the weight savings is worth the extra cost per cam is a decision you may need to make for yourself: if you need a couple pieces for alpine climbing (particularly the #4, which doesn’t have a competing ultralight cam on the market) and money is no object, the Camalot Ultralights bring all the things climbers have embraced about the C4s . Offset cams are particularly helpful when climbing alpine but can be used almost anywhere. This versatile protection for narrow cracks and small pockets use the same proven 13. Placement is secure, and easy to place and remove. BD climbing cams come in sizes ranging from #0. Biners for racking. 21 Camalot isn’t a real product, as intriguing as the idea of a cam big enough to protect a chimney might be. However, it is challenging trying to give a single nut an “easiest to clean” designation. Jul 15, 2021 · This chart provides a straightforward, easy to interpret size comparison, to help you compare cam models against one another in terms of sizing and range of use. Black Diamond #4), ranging from 15mm to 115mm. Compare Trad Climbing Cams. Size ranges are in mm; each row represents 1 mm so the visual representation is approximate, but it can give you a good view of size overlaps across manufacturers. I have been doing this for the last year and thus have an interesting perspective on the strengths and weaknesses of both Many people consider 10% and 60% expansion to be a reasonable usable range for cams, but these numbers may differ from cam to cam and also depend on your risk tolerance. There may have been some curses thrown in for good measure. Camalot C4. 5 (purple) and up. 7 (rated to 8kN; protects from 5. 5 etc but I think it is easier to say I need a #1, #2, #3, etc but maybe they should have started a #0. 4. Generally, any nut below size 7 is considered a micro nut. 0 all the way up to #8. Offset cams are made for irregular crack widths. 25, #3 should be a #2. Compare different brands of trad climbing cams by range, weight, and strength. 34" to 1. We’re here to help you choose the best climbing cams so you can jam your way up that next crack I found other cam size comparison charts unsatisfactory, so I made my own in google sheets to share. Your standard double rack is complete, and you now have enough gear to climb almost any classic that you have ever dreamed about! Sep 29, 2023 · Mid-sized cams start with fingertip sizes (e. I believe they have better “range” than most double axle cams of the same size, since they can handle offset placements; whereas a normal cam would blow and fail. Bi-color slings differentiate small and large cams of similar color; Sizes 4, 5, and 6 cams have trigger keepers to reduce racking volume; Single stem and double axle design doubles as cam stops; Large thumb loop provides a clip-in point for aid climbing; Sling tags tucked under shorter bar-tack for a cleaner look; Item #BLD00Z8 Oct 5, 2017 · My rack consists of double Metolius TCUs (sizes . Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Now 10% lighter, the redesigned Camalot C4 has eclipsed our classic, cornerstone cams, and features a more modern design with new touch-points like a wider trigger for easier handling, and our innovative trigger keeper for compact racking with sizes #4, #5 and #6. Jul 4, 2012 · Chart comparing old (odd sized) and new C4 camalots. Apr 15, 2020 · The chart below outlines the Zero Friend cam sizes, ranges, and head widths. 3. Sep 29, 2023 · Mid-sized cams start with fingertip sizes (e. Placement is not secure. I’ve also included a verified weight breakdown from my testing (note: I did not receive test samples of the 0. 7 and 8 have Sep 8, 2014 · Gear Review: DMM Dragon Cams and BD Camalots. Mar 27, 2015 · They have a narrow width, compare a red Totem to equal size BD #. 5/3), Black Diamond C4s (sizes 1, 2, and 4), a Wild Country New Friend (size 3) Totem Cams (sizes . Oct 31, 2024 · This is where modern cams really shine as they can be purchased in offset sizes and are often far easier to remove. The narrowest head width on small sizes. This is an article from Summit Post that has charts of the range of active and passive pro and how that relates to the body parts you would use to jam a crack of that size. Loadable on just two lobes. They can be placed passively (like a nut) or actively (like a cam), depending on the orientation and features in the rock. Jun 16, 2020 · The Black Diamond C4 No. The cams will either walk (often to an undesirable position), to allow the entire unit to re-align, or the cams will be loaded unevenly, making the unit much more prone to breaking the rock or tracking out. ) This chart shows the approximate true sizes of most of the camming units currently available. how happy would you be if you wanted to buy a cam that is smaller than cam "A", so you did some research, bought a new cam and it turned out that it wasn't smaller than cam "A". But beyond simply climbing lots of rocks, we used our lifetimes of climbing experience to carefully note important key factors for each cam and metric, described below. 89" Ultralight TCUs are for narrow, tricky, hard to protect thin cracks. If the lobes open up all the way, try a bigger size. That being said, climbing nuts with more rounded edges or slightly more pronounced trapezoidal shapes are slightly easier to clean. 95 (Purple Dragon/Camalot), Yellow 0. Now the DMM Dragon 2 cam aims to make the cam more secure in the most marginal of placements making it the Step 2 Release the trigger to allow the lobes to open up and make contact with the sides of the crack. Number of Cam Lobes Most of the testing took place “in the field,” by using cams on trad climbs. 628 RMNP - Rock Apr 9, 2021 · The six colour-coded units cover placements from 7. Falls were taken. 5-2), and a Totem Basic (size 0). Offset cams mean that the lobes are different sizes - they are offset from eachother. Ultralight C4's will match the Master Cams light weight, but cost $140 more for the set. Hello there! I am a full time climber who racks up with singles of 1-5 DMM Dragon Cams and singles of . 21 Camalot was an April Fool’s gag, on that same day Black Diamond quietly added two big, new offwidth cams to their C4 line: the No. Nov 1, 2016 · I think the Metolius solution is superior. Apr 4, 2025 · The Black Diamond Camalot Ultralights are everything we love about the original Camalot C4s with a weight reduction of 25%. Apr 26, 2025 · Exclusive design which features everything you require of a cam for all-around use with extended capabilities. Title: Cam Size Comparison Version 2. Nov 16, 2015 · Consider the cams possible movement/orientation when climbing above the placement, as well, due to rope drag/pull. 75 and new UL style 2. Sibusiso Vilane, First Black African The Link Cams from Omega Pacific offer the feature that may stand out above all with their trisected cam lobes that allow the cams to fit a far greater size range than any other cam on the market. 65 inches). 2-. 75° camming angle as Dragons – the optimum combination of holding power and range. When shopping for cams, pay attention to the following: Number of cam lobes; Stem design; Number of axles; Expansion range; Offset cams; Shop Cams. Jul 6, 2017 · I guess if you are talking about their numbers #1 cam would be better called a #1. Mikel has improved on Waggoner's design in a number of ways, but the main improvement is that Totem have developed a system to ensure that the head of the camming unit Placed correctly, cams offer excellent hold, particularly in places where passive pieces of gear will not, such as parallel-sided cracks. The Black Diamond Camalot C4 is the gold standard climbing cam and recent improvements have shaved 10% of weight off of these workhorses. Jul 3, 2016 · Winter Climbing; Photography; Culture Bunker; Anyone got a link for a cam size comparison chart Podcast Mountain Air - 1. 6–12. Make sure that all the comes are certified and have a listed strength rating in kilonewtons. While it turns out that the chimney-protecting No. 3 mm. Range Finder tells you at a glance if you've chosen the right size cam for the placement. Starter nut sets include a few larger micro nut sizes in the assortment. 65 (Blue Dragon/Camalot) and Blue 0. 3) and extend up to fists (e. The cam has an easier possibility of moving into a perpendicular position and possibly causing the cam not be able to operate in the position it was designed. Range 0. 5, so much smaller and lighter, or even a X4 is heavy at the size. Pretty much always in black diamond size numbers. Feb 25, 2015 · Sizes. The intro to the Indian Creek guide book has an excellent chart listing all the cam sizes for specific widths (uses older BD cam sizes rather than new C4s, but you can convert with the chart above. Description The first generation of dual axle DMM Dragon Cams set the benchmark for modern camming devices. A larger cam should be used. Additionally, be careful with the age of the description. g. Aug 11, 2021 · I fucking love my totems. I have a set of BD C4 cams . 5-4 Black Diamond Camalots (plus a set of Metolius TCUs for smaller sizes). Black Diamond. Inducing hotforged lobes to trim down the weight and full strength extendable slings was a game changer. 97 inches) and the No. Ultralight Power Cams are the lightest 4-cam units in the world! Direct Axle Technology allows for more placement options in shallow, narrow, or bottoming placements, and makes tricky placements easier due to better cam lobe visibility. Black diamond cam sizes are not 1:1 with inches, for instance for a 3 inch crack you’d probably place a number 4. 75 and 1 followed by 2 and . Technology that is pushing the clean climbing limits. Usable is 10% to 60% of the max range, unless a manufacturer publishes a different number. Read the Instructions For Use! Moved Permanently. Features and Benefits: Recycled Stainless Steel Construction Made in the USA from Recycled stainless steel with a min 60% post-consumer content Th Today, our climbing protection is still the trusted industry standard – and we’re still just as committed to innovation. Well, by now you’ve probably figured out the Black Diamond’s No. 7 Camalot. vmrfzdr bsf vmjr jvziqr mohwqo yidhz jzlhhv zmjzkok txnl jcwid